Travel to South India's Backwaters and Mumbai

Having traveled to North India several times, we decided to go a bit off the beaten track and see South India this time. Came to find out, it was a totally different (and relaxing) experience. The tranquil backwaters, the stunning landscape and the laid-back vibe are something hardly to be found in North India. 

– Zoe, Travel Consultant at Odyssey Tours

Kochi – a Quaint Colonial City

My first reaction to Kochi was - how could it be the biggest city in Kerala?! It has no congested transportation and ever-present beggars which I saw in another southern city of Mumbai. Instead, it showed us the charm of a European town. There are lots of old churches of Portuguese, British and Spanish styles, among which the Vasco House is the oldest one in India and where Vasco da Gama (a Portuguese explorer) once lived. It is said that the serene seaport has drawn explorers and traders for over 600 years and sees boats transporting dwellers and cargo ships sailing to Europe every day. Vasco da Gama once traveled to Kochi in search of spices and he died in Fort Kochi on his third trip.  

Kochi is worth staying for 2 nights. We found ourselves joyful wandering down the street, sampling the seafood in a seaside restaurant and watching the sunset on a boat cruise. And I believe you will be too.

These fishing nets are made from bamboo and work with ropes weighted by rocks. The net is lowered by a fisherman walking on the bamboo pole and left in the water for about 5 minutes, then lifted up by the fishermen pulling on the ropes with rocks' weight.

St Francis Church in Kochi

Alleppey, the Hub of Kerala Backwater

From Kochi, we drove to Alleppey. Here we hit the highlights of the entire South India tour: tranquil backwater, palm-fringed villages, and of course quaint houseboats. For us living in the urban, a spring, a river and the sea can be appealing, not to mention these backwaters are life corridors connected to the sea.

The rivers of Kerala stretch from the Western Ghats mountain chain to the flatland of Kerala, in parallel with the shoreline in many sections and only 3 to 5 meters distance at the closest point. During the monsoon season, the seawater plunges across the coastline into the rivers. When the rivers are flooded, the water refluxes to the sea. This kind, of course, repeats itself year after year - this is how the "backwater" was formed. 

Taking a wooden boat along the backwaters, the view was something I would call "a masterpiece of nature". Let me picture this for you: the glittering rivers were fringed by tall coconut trees, which occasionally gave way to pretty little cottages and unfolded the simple life of the inhabitants on the banks. With the sun setting to the west, its brilliant glow painted the scenery before eyes. The whole place was like a pure land. No wonder National Geographic rates it one of Ten Paradises on Earth and one of 50 Must-visit Places in One's Lifetime.

Take a House Boat Sailing Along the Backwaters, Alleppey

Most of the houseboats offer private tours. That being said, each of them serves one tour group each time. The whole crew of three included the captain, the head cook, and the assistant. As soon as we boarded the houseboat, each of us was warmly welcomed with a glass of icy pineapple juice, which was just in time to relieve our exhaustion and the summer heat.

Along with a whistle and our excitement, the houseboat started sailing out of the narrow canals into the broad rivers. Along the way, we passed through the scenic towns, villages and numerous churches of Kerala and had a glimpse of life along the banks. Birds soared above the sky seeking for food. School kids were on their way home after school. Housewives did their family laundry by the water edge. Farmers worked in the rice paddies. An old-fashioned tractor passed by and scared away the ducks. Occasional Chinese fishing net pulled into eyes.

The waterway became wider. The boat gradually took us from the inland rivers into the wide harbor of the sea. A draft of Arabic breeze found its way to me. The view became obscure. At dusk, the gorgeous sunset set against the coconut groves; a gondola glided by fleetingly - it's an India only to be found in the backwaters.

Kovalam – a Tranquil Arabian Beach Town

After Alleppey and an overnight stay on the houseboat, we reached Kovalam, which is a beach town only 20 minutes drive to the capital of Trivandrum. Here we virtually reached the border of Arabian Sea and backwater.

Our tour guide recommended us a sunset cruise to Poovar Island at the southern tip of Kerala. We took his advice. Poovar is some 20 minutes driving distance from the hotel we stayed in Kovalom. The whole cruise took 2 to 3 hours. At 3 pm, we got on a traditional Kerala rice barge which took us into the labyrinthine canals. 

As the boat pulled out of the groves, the waterway became wider. Floating lodges and restaurants can be seen everywhere. The border of Arabian Sea and backwater was now just a few kilometers away.

As the sun was tilting towards the horizon, we eventually reached the estuary of backwater and stepped on the small stretch of sand that separates the Arabian Sea and backwaters. It is said that, when the water level of the sea on the left side is higher than that of river on the right side, the sea water will infused into the inland river, and vice verse.

Coast View of Kovalam, India

Mumbai – a City of Sharp Contrasts

Mumbai was our first and also last stop in India.  Although it is mainly served as a transportation hub, it is worth sightseeing for some reasons. The overall architectural style of Mumbai is similar to that found in a European metropolis. In the south of Mumbai, there remain lots of European-style and British Gothic architectures. India is indeed, a pearl among all the British colonies.

Overlooking Mumbai Harbor, the Gate of India is the most famous landmark of Mumbai. During the colonial period, it was the first building travelers would see as they approached Mumbai after the voyage from the sea. It was also where the British troops withdrew after the independence of India in 1949. 

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Station, was completed in 1888. It perfectly showcases the blending of Victorian Gothic Revival architectural style and traditional Indian architectural style. It is not only one of India's busiest train stations, but also the headquarters of the Central Railway. In 2004, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mumbai embraces all sorts of people. We witnessed the poorest side of the city while walking by the open-air laundries, the slums, and the overpass. People were cooking, chatting, bathing, teasing, urinating and suffering the grim reality.

Yet we also saw one of the world's most luxury hotel - the Taj Mahal Hotel - and the world's second expensive private villa after Buckingham Palace- Antilia. Located in the center of Mumbai, the 27-storey Antilia building is worth 1.2 billion dollars. It boasts 6 car parks, 3 helipads and a series of sky gardens and is maintained by over 600 staff.At dusk, people from all walks of life gathered at the sea-front promenade Marine Drive doing exercises, resting, and photographing. The soft glow of sunset blurred the sharp contrast between the rich and the poor at the moment.

With the trip drawing to a close, we had a more direct understanding of what India is really about. If we say North India is more about historic and cultural heritages, then South India offers a completely different travel experience with its stunning nature beauty and laid-back vibe. A single trip is never sufficient to experience the vastness, richness, and diversity of India. But don't take my word for it, go and see for yourself!