A Foreign Visitor's Guide to India's Wagah Border Ceremony

27km from the Indian city of Amritsar, Wagah Border is the only border crossing between India and Pakistan that is open to foreign visitors. What is interesting about it is a colorful daily border ceremony performed by the border guards located on both sides before they lower the flags and close the gates. Traveling to India and Wagah Border? You probably need to read more of the guide before going.

What is the Wagah Border Ceremony?

Wagah Border Ceremony is also commonly known as "the beating retreat ceremony". Every evening at sundown, the zealous ritual happens with incredible military precision and lasts for around an hour.

Patriotic songs are played, with entertaining folk performances as pre-ceremony excitement. The actual ceremony starts with a yell and passionate battle calls echoed by the crowd from each side, The Indian border guards then appear in khaki uniforms and plumage-like hats, while the Pakistan soldiers dress in black. After the patriotic scream-offs, both stern-looking guards march towards the border gate, stomping heavily and kicking high in an attempt to outdo their counterparts in the opposite direction. When the gates are opened, the march ends with an exchange of the soldiers' silent death stares. It is rumored that the level of fury staged marks the current Indo-Pak relations. The guards salute each other and exchange brisk handshakes before lowering the flags and closing the gates. The whole procession is truly inspirational, everyone, even foreign visitors, will find themselves fully engaged in the aura of celebrations.

Things foreign visitors should know before going

When to attend

The daily ceremony is normally held at around 4:30 p.m. in winter and 5:30 p.m. in summer throughout the year. To get a good seat, it's suggested to arrive at least half an hour ahead of time. In this case, summer is not a good time to go as there are no shades at all, and the sun remains very fierce in the afternoon. October to March produces cooler days. Try to avoid weekends, when the periphery can be packed with thousands of people.

Transport

Wagah Border can be easily accessed by buses and cars, but none of the modes of transport is allowed to get the gear at the border gate, which is 500 meters from the entrance. It means all visitors must stop at the entrance and walk in on foot.

Entry

The event doesn't need any tickets to join. Foreign visitors are required to show their passports to enter. So remember to bring it along! If you are traveling with Odynovo, your private guide and driver will escort you to the entrance and wait for your return at the agreed meeting point at any time. Basically, you don't need to worry about language when inside as the border officers speak understandable English and are willing to offer help.

Seating Arrangements

There is a foreigners' section which allows mixed genders to sit together. The distance is less than 50 meters from the border gate, a pretty good place to watch the ceremony. Domestic spectators are divided into men and women with children arranged in separate areas, which are located around 80 to 100 meters from the border gate.

Children

The scene can be chaotic sometimes. Please take good care of your children if you are taking them to the ceremony, as it needs extra attention to possible pushing, jostling, or stampede.

Safety

It is a well-known fact that the relations between Pakistan and India are not always peaceful. Fortunately, both countries are happy to produce a motivational and passionate joint ritual every day at the border. With tight security, it is safe to watch the event. In the past three decades since the ceremony started, no spectators were hurt by border issues.

Prohibited Items

Watchers must go through a strict security check before entering the visitor areas. Bags, cigarettes, and lighters are not allowed inside. When traveling with Odynovo, you may leave your bag in the car, only carrying the valuable belongings. Allowed items include males' wallets, cameras (without the bag), and mobile phones. Note that signals are banned inside, though. Food, snacks, and water are also OK, but try to put them in transparent bags like plastic bags. The actual security restriction depends on the situation of the day.

Things to Watch Out for

1) As the noise can be very loud, a pair of earplugs would help a lot.

2) Keep an eye on your belongings as pick-pockets happen around the area. If you lose anything important, report to the border police station.

3) When the ceremony ends, more than 1,000 people leave the border in the meantime. Expect to see unorderly crowds and traffic jams along the road back to Amritsar.

4) There are vendors selling copies of the ceremony and procession. Just be aware of pirated or poor-quality ones.

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